Not sure of the "what or where" of the screw problem but a few generic tips might help.... On the screw that is spinning freely, get under it with a flatblade screwdriver or better yet if you have one, a tack prybay...sorta like a smal claw hammer nail puller, but the thing to do is to unscrew the screw as you put pressure under the head of the bolt/screw until it "bites" and then go ahead and unscrew it. For the stripped holes, just drill it out to the next bolt/screw size with the appropriate drill, then tap the fresh hole. On the better drill indexes, there will be a chart that shows the correct drill for a particular bolt and thread size...off the top of my head for example, a 1/4" x 20TPI bolt takes a #7 drill. There are different grades of Locktite or locking compounds. Use the one appropriate for the duty expected of it. Read the labeling on the package to see what the proper use is for that compound. Also remember that the size of the bolt comes into play too. A non-load bearing screw like what you mention does not need a high strength compound. I have used clear fingernail polish before as a locking compound..also good to keep cracked chrome from rusting! Still better than the old gorilla snout we used to use in the old "daze" (yellow weather stripping compound). My olde Maico still has it on parts. There is one brand of locking compound that I used to use that allowed multiple undoings with one application but for the life of me, I can't remember the brand name and i guess the bottle i had is buried in a box still needing unpacking somewhere...It maintains a fairly soft texture so it reseals when screwed back into. has a nice fingernail polish applicator brush in it. There is a tool called a rivnut that is like a riveting tool but will insert a "nut" into a drilled hole and is then spread out to sieze the surrounding metal of the hole. You then just use it as a threaded hole. Especially good for sheet and thin walled metal and such. Think wellnut, but a metallic sleeve verses a rubber sleeve As with the wellnuts, these are not made for high loads or locking compound. In fact I use a moly paste as a anti-sieze on my wellnuts. If properly used, the wellnut is a good fastening system. The main issues with the wellnuts is to not over tighten and to make sure the bolt/screw is aligned properly before going after it in tightening it up, otherwise you cross thread the nut. You can buy the wellnuts from most bike catalogs or McMaster Carr. If you want to support a Ducatisti, you can get them from Ca Cylcleworks...Chris is one good guy! or through DesmoTimes and LT is again one good guy. When buying them, buy extras and buy the several sizes you need for your bike/s. If you think a wellnut or stripped screw is a PITA, try to drill out a rivet! Cheers...Hopper --- On Sat, 2/4/12, nate_isu_2000 <nateducst2@gmail.com> wrote:
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