Not all installations require drilling the frame. In particular, all applications for the 12 mm bolts do not require drilling. Applications where the stock bolts thread into the frame are the only applications which require drilling the frame. For example an 851 will require drilling but a 916 will not. If your application does not require drilling, the next three paragraphs do not apply.
When drilling the frame, we recommend that you only back out the stock bolt enough to drill thru the frame plus a .25 of an inch (6mm) for 1992 or earlier models. On later models you need to drill thru the frame plus 1.25 inches (30mm). The reason this is necessary is because the holes in the engine case are not straight. These holes are cast. The stock bolt is soft enough to conform to the miss-aligned holes -- but ours will not.
You will need to drill the threaded end of the frame with a .406 dia (13/32) drill. We recommend the use of a slow rpm drill motor (approx. 600rpm). The drill will most likely cut a little oversize (.002 to .005) this will give you the necessary clearance for the bolt. It is a good idea to use some cutting oil when you do this (WD-40 works well). Please make sure that your drill follows the threaded hole. If your drilled hole is not reasonably straight, the bolt may bind when you install it. Prior to installing the bolt, make sure ALL the chips are removed form the frame and engine.
Once you have done the drilling and cleaned ALL the chips form the hole, you may use the new bolt to drive the stock one out. This should be done with a soft hammer (plastic or lead) but NOT with ball-peen or a carpenters hammer. Please do not forget to use the Loctite and torque the bolts properly. If you decide not to use the Loktite, do not assemble the nuts and stud without some type of lubricant or anti-seize. If the nuts and stud are assembled dry they may gall together and you will not separate them without causing severe damage!
"end quote"
On Sep 29, 2010, at 4:12 AM, Tim de Martino wrote:
Anyone had any experience converting a 10mm bolt setup to 12mm? I received the
TPO kit that I ordered and although it's a really nice product, the studs are
12mm. I could return them but am thinking conversion.....
I have done fairly extensive googling and searching within this group but
there's not much info - the best I could find was QW saying ,basically , grab a
big drill bit and go to town!
QW - were you taking the piss or is this another example of your "it's not that
hard, just get on with it" posts? If the latter, can it be done in situ (albeit
very carefully)?
This idea may be overkill, but it would be nice to end up with a REALLY strong
engine mount.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers
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