A case of beer would be a good start.....then... See if Pro Italia still has the video that shows the way to do the valve adjustment. They show a few nice tricks. Also go to Ca Cycleworks in the tech section and Chris Kelley has a good video on the subject. Get a good digital 0-1"/25mm micrometer so you can measure in mm or get a calculater to do some converting. Get the turning tool with "arms" so that you can rotate the crankshaft easily. You will also need the two "measuring" tools to measure the closing shims. Make a device to plug the oil return hole and make it so that you will not forget to pull it out of the hole before you buckle up the bike. I have a bolt that I put a wire through the safety holes so that the the wire is in the way if you put the covers back on before removing them. The plug keeps the keepers out of the bowels of the engine...never to be seen again. Make a wedge from a wooden handle "tooth brush", maybe 3 inches long, It will hold the rocker arm in place. Get a heavy piece of wire...welding rod would do and put a slight bend in it so that it will fit in the spark plug hole and then hold the valve in place when the keepers are pulled off the stem. I then use a bungie cord to hold it in place. Get a scribe with a magnet on the end and that will make getting the keepers off the stem and hold them a whole lot easier. Also I would highly suggest you get the MBP keepers and put them in while you're adjusting your valves. They will post pone your future valve adjustings. Have a note pad to write down the figures and do your math. Keep it all systematic and laid out so you can keep your place. One shim can be used on another valve. With good notes, you will keep the number of new shims needed to a minimum. Also get a flat whetstone so you can lap in a shim to a closer tolerance..or a sheet of emery cloth on a pane of glass or granite surface. And don't forget the beer...Hopper --- On Wed, 2/29/12, Jerry Duke <jerry.duke@gmail.com> wrote:
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